TRAVEL WITH GUIDEPOST: “Cuba, Paradise Lost”
L-R: Beautiful plaza reminiscent of Cuba’s Spanish heritage; Gourmet cochinillo;
the Chevrolets that Cuba made its own; El Floridita, “La Cuna
del Daiquiri”; Gónzalez Murillo’s mountain mural
by Muriel Feiner
Photos: M. Feiner
I have always wanted to visit Cuba and the opportunity presented itself when FEPET (Spanish Federation of Tourism Writers and Journalists) celebrated its annual International Congress on this Caribbean Island. I discovered all the charm I expected to find in such an attractive, historical and touristic destination though there were certain deficiencies that disturbed me somewhat.
It is said that when Christopher Columbus first set foot on the island on October 28, 1492, he exclaimed: “The most beautiful vision that human eyes have ever contemplated.” And he was right. Fine sandy beaches, crystal clear waters, lush vegetation, a pleasant climate—you name it, Cuba has it. Surprisingly, however, this Nature’s bounty is not echoed by the scarcity of agricultural production on the idyllic island.
The Capitolio, one meter larger all around than its counterpart in Washinton DC
We landed at José Marti International Airport in Havana, named after the famous Cuban poet, and on the way to the hotel we were able to appreciate many vestiges of the former grandeur of the capital, with ancient colonial-style palaces, next to the skeletons of the once luxurious buildings now practically reduced to ruins.
The Capitol building is particularly striking because it is an almost perfect reproduction of its namesake in Washington D.C. except that, as the official guide told us proudly, it is one meter larger than its U.S. counterpart in all of its dimensions.
A walk along the pedestrian street of Obispo is a must and we pass the charming Ambos Mundos hotel where Ernest Hemingway stayed until he bought his own home on the island, the Finca Vigía. El Floridita was his favorite watering hole and little has changed in this tavern where the American Nobel Prize winner used to savor its delicious daiquiris. Also highly recommended is a stop at the Bodeguita del Medio on Empedrado Street, another of Hemingway’s haunts, to enjoy the mojitos.
Lifesize bronze statue by José Villa Soberón of Spanish dancer-choreographer Antonio Gades whom the Cubans revere
A Spaniard highly revered by Cubans was dancer and choreographer Antonio Gades, remembered with a beautiful, life-size bronze statue in front of the Palace of Lombillo, facing the Cathedral of Old Havana. The figure of the great dancer is the work of Santiago-born artist José Villa Soberón, who was also responsible for other notable sculptures like that of the beloved Cuban singer Benny Moré in his hometown of Cienfuegos, and John Lennon in the El Vedado Park in Havana.
Cuba’s priceless collection of Chevrolets
But the highlight of any visit to Havana is a tour of the city aboard one of the Chevrolet convertibles, magnificently preserved from the 1950s, most of which are owned by the government. Chauffeurs take the visitors around to enjoy the city’s color, liveliness and alegría and thus imagine its joyful and splendorous past.
The end of the day is the perfect time for strolling along the eight-kilometer Malecón, a promenade ending at the mouth of the Almendares River. A spectacular sunset awaits the lucky visitor.
We were not lucky enough to have attended a show at the legendary Tropicana nightclub where famous international stars like Nat King Cole, Frank Sinatra and Josephine Baker performed in their day, before noteworthy personalities the likes of Marlon Brando, Ava Gardner and Errol Flynn sitting alongside the United States’s most notorious gangsters: Lucky Luciano, Meyer Lansky or Al Capone.
The precious stuff that the world-famous Cuban cigars are made of
From Havana we left for Viñales and Pinar del Río with its famous tobacco plantations and the home of the Cohiba, Montecristo and Partagás cigars, highly valued throughout the world.
A special stop was the Cueva del Indio where a boat takes visitors down the underground San Vicente River to admire the unique stalactite and stalagmite formations. Nearby is the Mirador de Los Jazmines with its huge mural painting on the Pito mountain by Leovigildo González Murillo, a disciple of Mexican artist Diego Rivera. González Murillo took four years to complete it, with the indispensable assistance of the local villagers.
A quaint public transport
It does not matter that the national highways are not in optimal condition because there is very little traffic due to the scarcity and high cost of rationed fuel. Therefore, the most common means of transportation for the locals is the small horse-drawn carriages. You see many hitchhikers along the highways because the public bus service is irregular and so the tourist buses are obliged to pick them up when they head back empty to Havana.
The Santísima Trinidad Church in a beautiful colonial setting
The Villa de Santísima Trinidad, founded in the sixteenth century by Diego Velázquez, and known today as the City of Arts and Handicrafts, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Trinidad is in a relatively fine state of conservation with its cobblestone streets and restored buildings featuring vibrantly colored facades, creating a beautiful colonial complex in which the Plaza Mayor and the Church of the Holy Trinity stand out. We stayed at an outstanding hotel, the Meliá Trinidad, whose spacious rooms have their own patio and direct access to a long pool. Actually, the hotels for tourists are generally spectacular, especially the Meliá, Iberostar and Occidental of the Spanish chains with their offer an all-inclusive plan during the stay.
Another important town is Santiago on the other side of the island. Founded in 1514, its Governor, Hernando de Soto, stayed on until he went off to Florida in search of the mythical Fountain of Youth. Unfortunately, he did not find it and died in the attempt.
Cienfuegos, once known as the Perla del Sur, was settled in 1819 and was considered at the time the second most important city in Cuba. From here, we went on an excursion to Cayo Blanco and the Marina Marlin. Our last destination was Varadero, a very popular tourist destination.
A bronze Hemmingway in his favorite corner at the bar of El Floridita . Another Vila Soberon sculpture.
Let’s backtrack to Ernest Hemingway now. The famous American novelist fell in love with the island on his very first visit (1960) and bought Finca Vigía in the outskirts of Havana as his winter residence. It was here where he penned several of his best works, beginning with the famous bullfighting article, “The Dangerous Summer” commissioned by Life magazine. Previously, he spent the 1959 season following the bulls in Spain and the rivalry in the arenas between top matadors Antonio Ordóñez and Luis Miguel Dominguín. He returned to Cuba in January of 1960 to write “The Dangerous Summer”. The magazine wanted 10,000 words but Hemingway was such an avid aficionado that he ended up with a total of 130,000! It was eventually cut down to 40,000 words and printed in three installments. In 1932 The Dangerous Summer in its entirety was published in book format.
Hemmingway would go on and write other bestsellers such as The Old Man and the Sea and For Whom the Bell Tolls at Finca Vigia.
“After the Spanish-American War of 1898, the Americans tried to eradicate both spectacles; they were only able to eliminate the bullfights.” (Photo: Havana bullring toward the end of the 19th century. No known author. PD)
During its presence in Cuba, Spain introduced its language, its religion and its customs and traditions, including bullfighting and cockfighting. After the Spanish-American War of 1898, the Americans tried to eradicate both spectacles; they were only able to eliminate the bullfights, but not the cockfights. Also, for some strange reason American baseball is enormously popular in Cuba even today.
A farm with some limitations
Life in Cuba has its limitations and basic necessities may often be lacking. But the Cubans are nevertheless a very cheerful and hospitable people. They are friendly and outgoing and seem very happy despite their hardships. There is color, music and joy wherever you go – and safety – making a trip to Cuba a very pleasant experience. Which is just as well: Cuba needs, and welcomes, tourism.
A word of advice: Try not to leave your souvenir shopping for the last minute at the airport. We didn’t see many shops and customs formalities progress very slowly.
