TERUEL PAYS TRIBUTE TO THE BULLS IN ITS “FIESTAS DE LA VAQUILLA”

The lucky vaquillero from one of the town’s 21 peñas will scale the tall column (see photo) to tie the classic
red scarf around the Torico’s neck. It’s no easy feat; it requires a little help from friends in the peña.

by Muriel Feiner
Photos: M. Feiner

Teruel, a picturesque town replete with historic monuments. Photo shows the 13th century mudejar Cathedral, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The months of July and August in Spain are filled with an endless list of Fiestas, which initially commemorate the day of the local Patron Saint, according to the Santoral Calendar (every day may have more than one Santo). In the case of the Aragonese city of Teruel which honors the Santo Angel Custodio, the celebration is combined with the local tradition of celebrating the Torico, the Bull, to which the city owes its name.

Lots of cranked-up fiesta noise,  wine, revelty. . .

Like any typical small-town fiesta, there is customarily a lot of noise, wine and revelry in the streets with the marching bands of the local peñas — everyone dressed in white with a red scarf and sash  — although Teruel’s Mayor Emma Buj highlights the fact that the City Council also organizes a highly diversified calendar of cultural activities, which range from concerts, theatrical and dance performances and art exhibitions to a variety of sports competitions: “It is a program with hundreds of events intended for people of all ages to enjoy”.

The origin of these festivities held on the second Sunday of July is somewhat vague. During the Reconquista (Reconquest of Spain from the Moors), King Alfonso II was looking for a place to camp with his army. According to legend, a bull escaped from the herd and suddenly stopped in its tracks staring up at a bright star in the sky, and it was there that the city of Teruel was founded.  These brave bulls, native to the Mediterranean region in general, played a major role in the medieval festivities in Spain, in which people had fun playing, taunting and running in front of these dangerous animals. The tradition eventually became so deeply rooted that it led to the birth of a structured spectacle called the corrida de toros or bullfight.

During the Fiesta del Torico, the population of the town swells thrice its normal size

If in Pamplona and many other Spanish pueblos, encierros or running freely of the bulls through the streets are organized, in Teruel they prefer to keep the animals in tow, tied to a rope or soga which they loosen just enough to scare people into running away, but pull back to assure that no one suffers any serious injuries. This tradition was declared of Tourist Interest in Aragon in 2016 and the City Council is dedicating considerable effort to justifiably achieve national recognition, due to the immense popularity of the Fiesta del Torico. In fact, the town triples its population from 30,000 to 100,000 during the three days of the Festivities, attracting people from all over the region and the country.

Regañao, anyone?

After the religious Salve ceremony in the Town Hall, the tiny Campanico bell on the roof is rung and the mayor steps out onto the balcony overlooking the Plaza del Torico to announce the commencement of the festivities. Then the lucky vaquillero selected that year from one of the town’s 21 peñas scampers up the tall column as best he can to tie the classic red scarf around the Torico’s neck. It is not an easy task and so his colleagues in the peña form a small castellet or pyramid to help him reach the top.

Enthusiastic fiesta-goers flock to the bullring to play bullfighter.

As the Teruel Fiestas are dedicated to the unique Spanish fighting bull, an exceptional program of corridas is organized in its quaint bullring, featuring the top matadors and animals from the most prestigious ranches. What makes these festivities especially unique is the tradition of the ensogados, bulls that are exhibited one by one on Sunday afternoon in the arena before releasing small heifers for all those who want to go into the ring and play bullfighter, caping and running in front of the animals. Daring candidates are never lacking on the sand, while those in the stands pull out their meriendas that usually include the hearty regañao specialty, a bun filled with cured ham, chorizo, peppers and sardines, among other delicacies.

Beautiful architecture, intiguing alleyways. . .

The Fiesta de la Vaquilla continues throughout Sunday night with a short break to gobble down the traditional judías con morro (lima beans with pork grinds) at around 2:30 in the morning, before the first of the four ensogados bulls is let loose. As the bulls do not run free like in Pamplona but are firmly secured with ropes — the Soga and the Baga — the participants can have a lot of fun without danger.

The fiestas come to an end on Monday evening with fireworks and the removal of the red scarf from the Torico’s neck until neerxt year.

The Fiestas del Torico in Teruel are well worth a visit, as is the city itself at any time of year. It possesses beautiful architecture, important monuments, picturesque squares and alleyways, well- conserved Mudejar towers and the famous “Amantes de Teruel”, based on a Spanish-style Romeo and Juliet legend. And we should not forget to mention the excellent cuisine and the local wines and above all the jolly and friendly nature of the people who lay out a red carpet for all those who come to Teruel.

More information: https://sede.teruel.es