I'm a freelance journalist who took off to Madrid for a look-see and enjoy what was on offer while I was there. I was hoping to write a story about Halloween in this once-bustling capital. Considering how fiesta-loving the Spaniards are, All Saints Day cum Halloween should be quite festive. On the other hand, I had to get real. These are unusual times, the Era of the Covid. And I should be prepared to join a terribly watered-down holiday. . . Guess what I found out!