PAMPERED PALATES July 2013

By Margaux Cintrano

EL BURGO DE OSMA, SORIA attracts an enormous amount of discerning tourists and sophisticated visitors, however, where do they stay and where do they eat ?

The small historic city of El Burgo de Osma, positioned on the Ucero River and declared a Historic Patrimony, is the 3rd largest municipality in Soria. Often called the Ecclesiastical province, established in 1200, El Burgo de Osma has continued captivating us with its visions of the pampered palate in a most sumptuous setting, The Hotel Virrey Palafox, 4 Star. Maestro Chef Félix Martinez Soto had seduced our palates with his interpretations of his extraordinary creative seasonal Sorian gastronomy, with evolutionary touches.

THE GASTRONOMIC LOVE NEST . . .

HOTEL VIRREY PALAFOX 4 STAR & VIRREY PALAFOX RESTAURANT

Calle Mayor 2
El Burgo de Osma, Soria 42300
Reservations required: 975 341 311
Website: www.virreypalafox.com
Email: hotel@virreypalafox.com

EL BURGO DE OSMA is located in the province of Soria, with more than 10,000 km2 of extraordinaire rural landscapes and with less than 100,000 inhabitants. The ecclesiastical seat since its remote ancient origins, the magnificent cathedral, its noble architecture, squares, arcades, and fortress walls, have created a most emblematic rural town. It is the entry to the beautiful national parks of CAÑON DE RIO LOBOS and the SABINAR DE CALATAÑAZOR and is surrounded by the River Ucero and the River Abión, creating a truly privileged love nest for visitors and residents alike.

Here is where THE HOTEL VIRREY PALAFOX 4 STAR HOTEL and THE VIRREY PALAFOX RESTAURANT are situated. They have been family owned and operated by THE MARTÍNEZ SOTO FAMILY and their excellently trained team.

The elegant, luxurious and yet comfortable hotel, which we have entitled the NEST OF LOVE, is less than a minute’s stroll to the MAIN SQUARE, in a spectacular building, completely reformed and remodeled on what was a former pharmacy, the Mill of the Saint Agustín Hospital. With its impeccable design, a variety of distinguished guests, including the world´s Number One, Chef Joan Roca, the architectural emblematic construction, provides conventions, business meetings, weddings, and all types of special events, both professional and personal.

THE RESTAURANT VIRREY PALAFOX, which the renowned MARTÍNEZ SOTO FAMILY has established, is located, across the street, next to the Renaissance building of the former Santa Catalina University. Delighting in their gastronomic movement, for more than 3 decades since its beginning, it has become a reference point for the modern cuisine of Soria, Castilla y León.

The VIRREY PALAFOX RESTAURANT wisely choose their impeccable ingredients from their native lands, which offer an extensive variety of fresh sustainable natural products and combine them into contemporary dishes with evolutionary touches.

The gastronomic rituals of Pork Product Festivities are held during the months of February and March and are profoundly steeped in historical theological significance.

During the winter season, medieval dinners are held, and during the autumn the collecting of wild mushrooms and Mycological festivities, the Duck, Foie Gras, Honey and the local Black Truffle festivities are held.

The Museum of the Pork is not to be missed. It is located in the Castilla de Los Diezmos and the Virreinato de La Matanza ( the slaughter) Salons in the Virrey Palace.

Additionally, there are outstanding Mycological courses at the Institute of Mycology in the centre of the rural ancient city.

EL BURGO DE OSMA, THE LAND OF ANCIENT ORIGINS

El Burgo de Osma is profoundly steeped in ancient origins dating back to the pre-Roman civilization, called the Arévaca in the land of Úxama. However, under the Roman occupation, Úxama had become Osma. During the Visigoth period, the small town had enjoyed a time of great prosperity, since the 6th century. It had been acknowledged as the Episcopal Seat until the arrival of the Moors.

After the Moorish occupation the small city had recovered its former status, as the capital in the 12th century. The forming of the current town of El Burgo de Osma had restarted and executed its development in the year 1101, when the Bishop Pedro de Bourges (known as San Pedro de Burgo ) chose this town for his Cathedral, a Monastery situated very close to the River Ucero, and henceforth, which created a nucleus of merchants and craftsmen. This brought about the building of the University of Santa Catalina. The Renaissance had begun.

THE HISTORICAL CITY OF EL BURGO DE OSMA

The ancient medieval Cathedral is one of the most relevant religious buildings in the region. The Gothic building was built in 1232 over another Romanesque structure that had been started,, during the time of Bishop San Pedro de Osma.

On the exterior the Renaissance reforms can be seen on the façade as well as the Baroque tower built in 1739. The interior of the Cathedral conserves uncountable treasures of original Romanesque art works, as well as an impeccably beautiful Gothic Cloister. Among its treasures are the high reredos, a work by Juan de Juni, as well as the tomb of the the founder, Bishop San Pedro de Osma. Furthermore, there is an enormous collection of codexes, amongst the Commentary of the Apocalypse by the Lay Brother Liébana.

THE MEDIEVAL CITY

Neighboring the Cathedral of El Burgo de Osma is the Episcopal Palace, a beautiful piece of architecture characterized by the Gothic style. To move on, there is Calle Mayor, the main urban thoroughfare, and on this well preserved network one shall encounter the lovely townhouses and local gourmet shops supported by open air porches with stone columns.

The historic city fortress walls were built by Bishop Pedro de Montoya, in the XV century. The patronage of the Portuguese Bishop, Pedro Alvarez D ´Acosta, and its Renaissance construction depicts the image of Santa Catalina, and hosts a most beautiful courtyard and gardens.

On the River Ucero, there are the ruins of the ancient Roman Bridge and on a nearby hill, the old Castle of Osma, which dominates the view. The water tower dates back to the XV century. Furthermore, there is evidence of a previous fortress dating back to the VIII century when El Burgo de Osma was on the border of Christian and Moorish territory.

In this town, a nest of love and gastronomy, one shall find the specialties of the region which include wild mushrooms, charcuterie, pork in all its forms, traditionally made butter, black truffles, lamb, stalks of cardoon, honey, legumes, foie gras, duck and other types of feathered game. The city is also famous for its exemplary cakes and breads, as it is a flour producing region since ancient times.

MAESTRO CHEF FÉLIX MARTÍNEZ SOTO

Our superb service, from the Director General of the Virrey Palafox Hotel, Juan Carlos Carmona Martínez, and Maître and Master Sommelier, César Martínez, had suggested we start off with a refreshing CAELIA, which is a renowned Sorian Designation Of Origin, artisan amber colored beer, which is prepared from Sorian wheat lands, 50 km. from El Burgo de Osma, dating back to Roman times and tastes nothing like a Mahou, which on a personal note, I cannot bear the aromas nor the taste. CAELIA has a completely different taste profile, and is wonderfully refreshing, light and delightful to the palate, without the yeasty aromas and taste of an industrially produced beer; after a long 2 ½ hour bus ride.

THE TASTER´s CARTE

• Home baked rustic bread called SOBA which is kneaded by hand
• Mineral Water: Sorian Monte Pinos
• The delicious empanada filled with assorted local wild mushrooms & foie gras
• Sublime, a homemade breadstick stuffed with Boletus & duck foie
• White Wine: 100% Chardonnay Bodegas Prensal: Susana Sempre 2011 Blanc, D.O. Mallorca; Excellent wine and food pairing
• Splendid vanilla puréed potato, served with duck foie caramelized with almond, raisins & rose wafer
• White Wine: Quinta Apolina Belondrade. Designation of Origin: Castilla y León
• Divine mango yolk served with Iberian acorn fed ham from Salamanca, on slate board
• Exquisite eggs served below temperature with cream of Perrochicos, black truffles & wild mushrooms
• The fresh Cod fish sautéed in fresh milk, wrapped & served on a bed of freshly made Pisto is paradise for the palate
• The spectacular Almond Crèpes, called Tejas de Almendra
• Red Wine: Alisdis D.O. Ribera del Duero
• The taste treasure, Croquette de Manita de Cerdo with chickpea mousse with Haricot Verts
• Homemade Dessert 1: A refreshing light jewel of tropical passion fruit, mint and chocolate with cream
• Homemade Dessert 2: The House Lemon Sorbette

STARRY NIGHTLIFE IN A PALACE
THE VIRREY PALACE ( PALACIO DE VIRREY )

El Burgo de Osma is alive and hopping after 21.00 hours into the wee hours of dawn. Henceforth, THE VIRREY PALACE, colloquially called THE PUB, located in the Cathedral Square, a former Mansion, and home of the clergy, the owners have re-created a beautiful vanguard multi use space.

Our wonderful Historian, Tour Guide and Manager of THE VIRREY PALACE, Armando García González, presented us with a delightful refreshing white wine called Quinta Luna 2012, 100% Verdejo Mono Varietal from the Designation of Origin, Rueda, Valladolid.

This phenomenal architectural gem, in a circa 1536 palace, hosts a cathedral ceiling bar loft reminiscent of Manhattan, an open air dinner destination, a Manhattan style discotheque playing an array of fantastic international and local sounds, a coffee bar, and an exhibition gallery for local artists. It is the perfect space for a private party. Host, and historian, Armando, presents and arranges live musical performances, as well as barbecues, which are held in their stunning open air gardens. Additionally, there is a wonderful boutique, run by hosting gifts, jewelry, autochthonous products, as well as a fantastic wine cellar.